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How to Clean a Rotary Brass Instrument
In this guide, we’ll walk you through how to clean your Brass Rotor Valve instrument at home (often called a bath or a "Texas Flush"). It’s a good idea to do this once a month, though how often you clean it can depend on how much you play and how your instrument builds up grime. You should also be regularly greasing your slides and oiling your valves. This helps prevent issues when it’s time to do a more detailed cleaning like the one we’ll cover here.
While you can definitely clean your instrument at home, many music stores, including ours, offer repair and cleaning services. Depending on your instrument and how much you play, you might need a deeper professional cleaning every 6 to 18 months. If your valves are still sticky or your slides are stuck after following this guide, it might be time for a visit to a repair technician.
These instructions apply to most modern brass instruments with rotors including french horns, f-attachment trombones, and some euphoniums and tubas.
What You'll Need
•Deep sink, tub, or water basin
•Lukewarm, running water (not hot!)
•Mild dish soap
•Large Towel to lay on the floor of the tub
•Mouthpiece Brush
•Valve Casing Brush or toothbrush
•Cleaning Snake for inside tubing
•Cotton Swabs (optional, for detailed cleaning of tight areas)
•Colander (optional, for keeping all slides together while soaking)
•Microfiber towels or other lint-free cloths for drying and wiping down the slides
•Large towel (for drying off the instrument)
•Slide Grease
•Rotor Oil
•Valve Oil
Step-By-Step Guide
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Prepare the Bathtub:
- Fill the bathtub with lukewarm water. Ensure the water level is high enough to submerge the instrument, but not so high that it will overflow when the horn is in the water.
Note: It is important that the water is not too hot. Scalding water can (and will) damage your instrument by removing lacquer, softening solder joints causing leaks, damaging valve felts, etc. - Add a few drops of mild dish soap to the water and mix it gently.
- Fill the bathtub with lukewarm water. Ensure the water level is high enough to submerge the instrument, but not so high that it will overflow when the horn is in the water.
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Disassemble the Instrument:
- Carefully remove the mouthpiece, slides, rotor caps, and any detachable parts from the horn. Do not un-tie rotor strings or remove rotors.
- Be sure to keep track of all parts so they don’t get lost or damaged. We recommend putting them into a colander so they can soak but not run away into the tub.
- Hint: if this is your first time bathing your instrument, take a photo of how the slides are before disassembling, to make reassembly easier. :)
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Submerge the Instrument:
- Slowly lower the instrument into the soapy water. Be gentle to avoid damaging any delicate parts.
- Let it soak for 10-15 minutes to loosen grime and buildup. Avoid fully submerging the rotor valves to prevent moisture damage.
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Clean with a Brush:
- Use a soft valve casing brush (or toothbrush) to gently scrub the instrument’s tubing, bell, and other surfaces. Pay attention to areas with visible grime.
- For tighter spots, a flexible cleaning snake or brush can help clean the interior of the tubing. run the snake until it catches, then pull it back through. Do not force it though if the curve is too tight, as it can get stuck.
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Clean the Valve Sections:
- Take extra care with the rotary valve mechanisms. You can use a small cloth or cotton swab to gently wipe down the valve sections without getting them soaked.
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Rinse the Instrument:
- Once the instrument is cleaned, carefully remove it from the water and drain your tub.
- Rinse it under clean, lukewarm water to remove soap and dirt.
- Rotate the instrument several times to make sure you get all the water out. Water tends to "hide" inside the nooks and crannies. Blow through slides to push it out, if needed.
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Dry the Instrument:
- Lay a clean towel on a flat surface and carefully place the instrument on it.
- Use a lint-free cloth to wipe down the surface and dry any excess water. Holding the slides tightly, shake them firmly to get water out from inside.
- Make sure the instrument is completely dry, especially inside the tubing. Water left inside the rotors can make them corrode over time.
- For best results, let the instrument air-dry for a few hours or overnight before reassembling.
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Reassemble and Lubricate:
- Once the instrument is fully dry, reassemble it carefully. Make sure all of the slides go back to their proper place!
- Apply a small amount of rotor oil to the rotary valves and moving parts to keep the instrument functioning smoothly. There are two places to do this: on the top part of the rotor under the valve cap, and on the back side of the horn where the rotor mechanism is. (See the images below)
- Use slide grease on all of the tuning slides. The easiest way to distribute it evenly is by applying it to the end of the inner slide, then inserting it into the instrument and rotating as you go to distribute it around as evenly as possible. Push the slide in and out several times, and wipe away any that builds up at the joint.
- Do a final wipe-down to remove and excess oils or grease.
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Final Check:
- After reassembly, test the horn by playing it briefly to ensure everything is in working order and that it feels smooth.
Helpful tips
•To prevent build-up of gunk or corrosion, make sure to clean your instrument regularly. You can use a cleaning rod or a cleaning snake dry (without soaking) to clean out particles and prevent them from getting lodged in the instrument, even if you don't have time or space to bathe it.
•Brush your teeth and rinsing your mouth before playing!
•Clean your mouthpiece regularly. Imagine using a spoon to eat lunch over and over, and storing it in your pocket and never cleaning it.... pretty gross, right? Using a mouthpiece brush with soap and warm water, or even toothpaste will keep it minty fresh and playing well.
•Be careful with any kind of polishing compound. Any liquid abrasive polish can do two things: etch your horn if too much pressure is applied or eat away at the lacquer finish, or get into the valves and wreak havoc by causing corrosion (rust) or even eating away at the metal making your valves loose and sloppy. A polishing cloth like THIS ONE is just as effective and will last for years without damaging your instrument.
A note about unlacquered horns: Over time, brass will naturally develop a patina (a greenish or brownish discoloration). While many players prefer to keep their instrument shiny, the patina acts as a protective layer against corrosion. If you don’t mind the natural aging of the metal, it’s actually a good thing for preserving the integrity of your instrument.
Restringing a String Linkage Rotor Valve
Please note: I do not recommend restringing a valve unless the string has broken and you are unable to bring the instrument to a repair technician. This service is typically included as part of a flush or routine service. Unless you are highly confident in your abilities, restringing can be difficult to do correctly. Improperly restringing the valve could affect the mechanism and potentially cause the instrument to fail during a performance.
Using the graphic below, follow each step. (All horns will either have the lever arm extensions below the rotor screw (see column A) or above it (see column B), depending on the rotor. Follow the diagrams appropriately.)
Check the height of the keys and make sure they're in alignment multiple times along the way.
- Begin with a string that is cut to approximately between 8 inches in length. Tie a double knot at one end, then pass it through the hole as shown.
- Take the free end of the string partially around the rotor screw (counterclockwise for A, clockwise for B), having loosened the stop-arm screw to accommodate the string.
- Pass the string (clockwise for A, counterclockwise for B) under the stop-arm screw, and adjust the position of the lever to approximate height desired. Tighten the stop-arm screw temporarily.
- Carry the string (counterclockwise for A, clockwise for B) around the rotor screw, threading it through end-hole of the lever arm extension.
- Hold the stop-arm screw against the stop (as shown by arrow) and wind string clockwise around the end screw when taut. Tighten the end screw. The lever height may be finely adjusted by loosening the stop-arm screw and then re-tightening as needed. The end screw may then need a slight adjustment to take up any slack.
